“Sirbaz has brought prestige and honour to himself and his family, to the Jamat of Pakistan and to the Jamat worldwide. His triumphs will undoubtedly be a source of inspiration — well beyond the field of mountaineering — to Ismaili youth around the world. I convey my warmest congratulations to Sirbaz and his family.” — Mawlana Hazar Imam, His Highness the Aga Khan, May 2025.

Adapted, prepared and compiled by MALIK MERCHANT from the Ismaili and Wikipedia

Mawlana Hazar Imam, His Highness the Aga Khan, the 50th Hereditary Imam of the Shia Imami Ismaili Muslims and direct descendant of the Prophet Muhammad (may peace be upon him and his progeny) has congratulated Ismaili Mountaineer Sirbaz Khan, who made history on Sunday, May 19, 2025,by successfully summiting Mount Kangchenjunga in Nepal, the world’s third highest mountain standing at (8,586 metres) without supplemental oxygen. He is now the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks — known as eight-thousanders — without oxygen support.

“Sirbaz’s achievement is truly remarkable;” read Hazar Imam’s letter, “the planning and preparation that must have gone into this endeavour, as well as the physical and mental courage required to succeed, are extraordinary and worthy of the greatest admiration.”

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“Sirbaz has brought prestige and honour to himself and his family, to the Jamat of Pakistan and to the Jamat worldwide. His triumphs will undoubtedly be a source of inspiration—well beyond the field of mountaineering—to Ismaili youth around the world. I convey my warmest congratulations to Sirbaz and his family.”

“The amount of talent within the community is very exciting,” Hazar Imam added.

Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga at approximately 5:00 AM local time on Sunday, marking the final ascent in a decade-long journey of extreme endurance and alpine skill. The 35-year-old climber, who hails from Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan, began his mountaineering career in 2016, deeply inspired by his mentor, the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, with whom he climbed on four expeditions. 

Before embarking on this journey, he worked in several roles, including as a low-altitude porter, kitchen assistant, high-altitude porter, and lead climber. He has now achieved a feat accomplished by only a select group of elite climbers globally.

This latest climb was confirmed by tour organisers Imagine Nepal, who congratulated Sirbaz for summiting the peak “in true alpine style” — without bottled oxygen or the aid of fixed ropes or Sherpa-established camps — considered the most demanding form of mountaineering.

The eight-thousanders —the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation as being more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height — include Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I, Gasherbrum I, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II, and Shishapangma, all of which Sirbaz climbed without supplemental oxygen.

The accomplishment is a landmark moment for Pakistan’s mountaineering community, especially in Gilgit-Baltistan, reinforcing the region’s growing legacy in high-altitude climbing. Sirbaz has been associated with the Aga Khan Youth and Sports Board in the country, contributing as a master trainer for climbing and mountaineering, sharing his knowledge and skills to inspire and prepare the next generation of adventurers.

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MT. Kangchenjunga

Kangchnjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas, the Kangchenjunga Himal, which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies in the border region between Koshi Province of Nepal and Sikkim state of India, with the West and Kangbachen peaks located in Nepal’s Taplejung District and the Main, Central and South peaks directly on the border.

Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world. However, precise calculations and meticulous measurements by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 showed that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, is actually higher. After allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world.

Date posted: May 24, 2025.

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Related coverage and articles:

• The Ismaili: Mawlana Hazar Imam commends Sirbaz Khan’s mountaineering achievement
• Wikipedia: Sirbaz Khan (provides dates and mountains he has climbed over the years)
• Wikipedia: Eight-thousander
• Instagram: Sirbaz Khan

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